Year's experience with 3600, a few issues

[Corksailor]

A year ago I bought my 3600, worth every penny of the little I paid for it, and have managed with it this far.  Took a bit of welding last year on the bogie wheels, some more this spring (main pulley that the drive belt ran to over the mower had separated the centre out.... local welder fixed it nicely).  Had a habit of throwing the belt off when engaged, but seem to have solved that by only engaging when throttled down to idle.  

Issues at the moment:   leaking oil at the joint of the main engine case and the front section, at the top, when running.  I tightened the nuts but only reduced it somewhat.  Presume no gasket is available, but one could be made... how major is the surgery to get that front section off?  Looks major, as the clutch shaft comes through it.  Just live with the oil loss and regularly clean up/top up?  Side of engine is usually spattered with oil, and the little ridges filled when through a mowing.  Oil stays within the dipstick range.

Although I'm having better luck keeping the belt on, I find that if I stop the mower when hot after some running (too often accidentally by lifting my butt up!), it won't re-engage.  Usually will when left alone to cool down for a while.  I'm presuming it might be the clutch is hot... no indication of anything when I engage the switch... but mower engages later (so far... it's out there now hopefully cooling down).   Anyone experienced this situation?  I'd like to run the Yamaha for a while, it's "tractor" compared to the sheet metal look of some of the new mowers, but I'm starting to eye some used tractors, and my wife is asking me why I don't just get a new one  ($$$ is why).

[yamadog]

For the oil leaking in front on top i had to pull off some of the engine covers amd cleaned where it was leaking real good with (gas or carb cleaner or something that drys clean) and put a two part epoxy on it or  jbweld will work. There have been people on here that have dissasembled the engine and made there own gasket. little to much work for me.  


You might have a dirty switch , I think you have to sit back down and turn your pto switch off then back on for it to reengage.  if that is not the problem try on your clutch turning the three screws evenly in a 1/4 turn and see if that helps too much in and your blades will stay engage and it will not start

[Corksailor]

Couple of good ideas there... thanks.   I can see the disassembly of the front casing would be trouble for the driveway mechanic.  Probably holds the front crankshaft bearing and any gearing to the belt clutch shaft.  I'll give the cleanup and epoxy a try.   Been wondering too about additives like Lucas Oil Stop Leak.  Adjusted to the quantity of oil in my tractor, might swell the gaskets a tad.  Not a big fan of additives in vehicles, but this isn't a vehicles engine running  for thousands more hours.

I wasn't aware of the adjustment screws on the clutch assembly... stayed away from that item.  Will give an adjustment a try.  Could well be too much slack in the plates or whatever it uses.  Sometimes when trying to get it to engage, running the throttle revs up and down will suddenly engage it.  Once engaged, it's good to go.  I know any oil near clutch plates or mating surfaces is dangerous (or on pulleys), but is there any part of the clutch assembly that needs lubrication?  Was also thinking of treating the belt with some dressing... don't know if this is the original belt, but one would think it's taken its share of wear over 25 years or so.

Thanks, Yamadog.

[rattosh51]

That may be your belt problem, older the belt is, the more it gets stretched.
On your clutch, there is a specific gap, that they need to be at-don't know what it is though.
You use a feeler gauge and measure the gap between the plates. Just make sure it is equal all the way around. There isn't any lube points on the clutch that I know of. Don't think belt dressing would help an
old belt too much....